Buca di Beppo

855 Howard Street, San Francisco, CA 94103

The enormous neon sign shows Chianti ebulliently spilling into an oversized glass. Its 1950s flavor applies to the decor inside, too. Italian and Italian-American pop culture artifacts are scattered everywhere. Note the so-called Pope's table, featuring a bust of John Paul II. The food is hearty and served family-style in enormous portions to local professionals, students and tourists. There is nothing gourmet per se on the menu, but the Spaghetti, Ravioli, Lasagna, Scampi and various incarnations of Parmagiana (veal, eggplant, chicken) are made with care and are delicious. The wine list has a few Chiantis.

• Hours: 11a-10p M-F, 11a-11p Sa, noon-10p Su

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