In a city where most restaurants have a lifespan of less than five years, it is heartening if not surprising to find such an old-timer. Politicians and business people have been coming here forever, buying each other martinis and waiting to be seated (no reservations are accepted). The seafood is fresh and fabulous and the decor is turn-of-the-last-century. The wait staff is great, and why not? Some have them have been here more than 30 years.
• Hours: 11a-9:30p M-F, 11:30a-9:30p Sa