The pleasantly straightforward, starched-linen and fresh-flower atmosphere at this Little Italy landmark lets you know that you're in an old-school restaurant. The menu is full of old favorites - Ravioli and a Veal Parmesan that's truly noteworthy. Even the house specialties, such as the legendary Bookmaker Salad - shrimp, salami and provolone topped with a cheese dressing over crisp iceberg lettuce - has a comfortable familiarity. The chef isn't breaking any new ground here, but then again, why try to improve on the classics?
• Hours: Noon-midnight Su-Th, noon-3a F-Sa